April is synonymous with diamonds, a gemstone long associated with brilliance, rarity and enduring beauty. While colourless diamonds remain the most recognised, coloured diamonds offer a more nuanced perspective, shaped by intensity, rarity and character.
From soft champagne tones to vivid pinks and blues, coloured diamonds introduce depth beyond the traditional white spectrum. Yet one question continues to arise: are all coloured diamonds considered fancy diamonds?
Are All Coloured Diamonds Considered Fancy Diamonds?
Not all coloured diamonds are classified as fancy coloured diamonds.
In gemmology, colour is carefully graded. Most diamonds fall within the D to Z colour scale, where subtle traces of yellow or brown may be present. Within this range, colour exists but is not considered a defining feature.
Diamond Colour Grading Scale (Source: GIA)
A diamond is only classified as a fancy coloured diamond when its colour extends beyond this scale in a way that is clearly visible and aesthetically desirable.
In essence:
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Diamonds with faint or subtle colour are not considered fancy
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Diamonds with strong, noticeable colour are classified as fancy
The distinction lies in intensity and perception, rather than the mere presence of colour.
How Does Diamond Colour Grading Work?
To understand this distinction, it is important to look at how diamonds are graded.
The traditional grading system for white diamonds ranges from:
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D to F - Colourless
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G to J - Near colourless
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K to Z - Noticeable colour, typically yellow or brown
As colour becomes more apparent within this range, value generally decreases, as the market has historically favoured diamonds with minimal colour.
Once a diamond surpasses this range in intensity, it is no longer graded on the D to Z scale. Instead, it enters the category of fancy coloured diamonds, where colour becomes the primary characteristic.
Featured: Certified Fancy Yellow Green Diamond of 1.60 carats, set in 18k Yellow Gold and White Gold. From the DOLMABAHCE High Jewellery Collection.
What Defines a Fancy Coloured Diamond?
Fancy coloured diamonds are diamonds in which colour is the defining feature. They occur in a wide range of hues, including:
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Yellow
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Pink
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Blue
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Green
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Orange
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Brown
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Rare colours such as red and purple
Unlike colourless diamonds, which are valued for their absence of colour, fancy diamonds are valued for the strength, saturation and purity of their hue.
They are graded using a different system based on intensity:
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Fancy Light
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Fancy
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Fancy Intense
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Fancy Vivid
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Fancy Deep
Among these, Fancy Vivid represents the highest level of saturation and is often the most valuable.
How Does Colour Influence Diamond Value?
Diamond pricing does not follow a linear path. Instead, it reflects a more nuanced progression often described as a U-shaped curve.
At one end, colourless diamonds are highly valued for their purity and rarity. As colour becomes more noticeable within the K to Z range, value typically decreases, as these tones are less traditionally desirable.
Beyond this point, perception shifts. When colour becomes vivid and intentional, the diamond enters the fancy category, where colour is no longer a compromise but the defining attribute.
This creates a distinct progression:
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Strong value at the colourless end
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A dip in lower colour grades
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A sharp rise in fancy coloured diamonds, particularly those with vivid saturation
Rare hues such as pink, blue and red can command exceptional prices due to their scarcity. As a result, two diamonds of similar size and clarity can differ significantly in value based on colour alone.
What Causes Colour in Diamonds?
Colour in diamonds is the result of subtle variations during their formation deep within the earth.
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Yellow diamonds derive their colour from nitrogen
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Blue diamonds contain traces of boron
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Pink diamonds form through structural distortion in the crystal lattice
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Green diamonds are influenced by natural radiation
These conditions are rare, which explains why natural coloured diamonds are far less common than colourless diamonds.
Natural vs Enhanced Coloured Diamonds
Not all coloured diamonds achieve their appearance naturally, and this distinction plays an important role in value.
Natural Coloured Diamonds
These diamonds develop their colour through natural geological processes. They are the rarest and most valuable.
Enhanced Coloured Diamonds
Some diamonds are treated through heat, irradiation or coating to alter or intensify colour. While visually appealing, they do not carry the same rarity or value as natural fancy coloured diamonds.
For high jewellery, natural fancy coloured diamonds remain the most sought after.
Coloured Diamonds in Contemporary Jewellery
Today, coloured diamonds offer a refined alternative to traditional white diamonds. Their individuality allows for more expressive yet sophisticated designs.
Featured: Fancy Yellow and Fancy Pink Diamonds set in the Flourish Earrings from HANGING GARDENS OF BABYLON High Jewellery collection.
Subtle tones such as champagne and cognac lend quiet elegance, while vivid hues create striking focal points. Whether used as a centre stone or as accents, coloured diamonds introduce depth and distinction to modern jewellery.
Interesting Facts About Coloured Diamonds
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Natural coloured diamonds represent only a small percentage of all diamonds mined
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Red diamonds are among the rarest gemstones in existence
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The Argyle mine in Australia was historically the primary source of pink diamonds, contributing to 90% of the global supply. With the mine's permanent closure in 2020, pink diamond value has increased due to its greater scarcity.
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In many fancy diamonds, colour intensity has a greater impact on value than clarity
A Broader Perspective on Diamonds
While all fancy diamonds are coloured, not all coloured diamonds are considered fancy. The difference lies in intensity, saturation and how the colour is perceived.
Understanding this distinction offers a broader appreciation of diamonds, one that extends beyond colourlessness and recognises the rarity and beauty of colour itself.
